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| Posted: Wed Mar 20th, 2019 07:11 pm |
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1st Post |
Kurt Bogerman
C8H18 +12.5 O2 -> 8 CO2 +9
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With help from vintage parts suppliers Mike Berg, Lake Speed, and Chuck Giaccobe, I have upgraded my Burco-style Yamaha KT100 clutch with a Burco Ring. I've installed a fourth Yamaha shoe, and equipped each shoe with one long plate and one washer, with the shoes and weights trailing. The ring is mounted on the drum side, riding on the trailing bolt heads. I think that I've interpreted Mike's recommendations correctly, in search of a 8500RPM engagement for use with a SR-Y pipe. Any red flags?
Thanks!
KurtAttachment: IMG_20190310_163852.jpg (Downloaded 155 times) Last edited on Wed Mar 20th, 2019 07:27 pm by Kurt Bogerman
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2019 01:29 am |
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2nd Post |
Paul Wright
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Kurt,
You've been given good advice by some very knowledgeable people! I personally don't use those rings, but some guys swear by them. As I see it, as the shoes wear the ring will become particularly more and more out of round and its effectiveness will diminish, becoming just one more variable to deal with.
One simple tip I was given (but obviously missed by me) was to stack your weights on the outside so that you don't have to pull the hub should you want to play with the clutch "tune".
I also made a spanner type wrench that has two "spuds" which nest between the shoes and effectively prevents the crank from turning when tightening and/or removing the clutch nut...learned a hard lesson on not getting it torqued properly!
Use the the Tric-Loc oil and you will never use anything else.
I'm sure experiences and opinions are going to vary, hopefully a few others can provide additional input that will be useful & constructive to you.
Good luck.
PaulLast edited on Thu Mar 21st, 2019 02:08 am by Paul Wright
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2019 01:19 pm |
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3rd Post |
Tom Day
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I have been using Mikes's rings for years.He makes them in diff sizes. Yes they do get out of round as wear occurs but it is still better than no ring.The other trick is to use a chrome drum.I also use the ring nuts on the outside so I don't have to pull the drum to change things.Mike has them also.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2019 04:27 pm |
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4th Post |
Kurt Bogerman
C8H18 +12.5 O2 -> 8 CO2 +9
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Thanks, guys. I do have the TricLoc oil. The only hesitation I have is that I've received excellent advice in other areas from Steve O'Hara, and he's in the "cheap thick gear oil" camp, but his posts on the matter are from almost ten years ago. I've found that more recent posts advocate for TricLoc, so the TricLoc may be the better performer.
I didn't ask Mike about the ring nuts, because I'm using a single thin ring. Also, I would be afraid that the ring could damage the aluminum cover. Is that a legitimate concern?
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2019 07:08 pm |
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5th Post |
Paul Wright
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The ring definitely needs to go against the drum side if you are just registering it on the Allen bolt heads...there is a special nut that was used with longer bolts for dual ring arrangements so one could be put on the cover side (again I don’t use them so hopefully someone more knowledgeable on their use will chime in).
I was using the “cheap gear oil” and worked fine but I changed it after every race. I ran out of what I was using and got something different that had a high shear property which made the clutch act like it was almost a direct drive when it was on the stand...out on the track it didn’t know what it wanted to do. Switched to the Trick-Loc, all that went away, very consistent and left it in for the weekend of running.
I think you have a good baseline to start with...experiment and you’ll learn and find what works best for you...all part of the fun and experience!
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21st, 2019 07:19 pm |
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6th Post |
Paul Wright
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Tom,
Are you using current production shoes from Burris along with the chrome drum? I have been told that the new shoes are “harder” and did not work well with the chromed drum. I currently use neither but would appreciate your experience and insight.
I have acces to hardness testing equipment and need to check some and see if they are in fact different or if its just another opinion without merit.
PaulLast edited on Thu Mar 21st, 2019 07:21 pm by Paul Wright
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| Posted: Fri Mar 22nd, 2019 02:53 pm |
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7th Post |
Tom Day
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Paul, I have used NOS and the the new shoes with Macs and Komets and been able to make them work. I control most of the slip with different sizes of rings along with weights and Tric Loc oil. I like the chrome drums because the clutch stays more consistent and the drum lasts much longer. Drum of course is more money but you will spend that much or more in std drums that wear much faster. Guys that run them all the time say 2+ years.I run 1 ring and try to avoid the thin ones as I have broke those.
Other people I'm sure have run different setups with success but this is what works for me with my high ported engines. Have not run this on low ports but should work with enough weight.
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| Posted: Sun Mar 24th, 2019 02:01 am |
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8th Post |
Kurt Bogerman
C8H18 +12.5 O2 -> 8 CO2 +9
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Guys,
Which weights are part # BC430? Are they the long ones that I installed, or are they the short ones in the background of my photo?
Thanks,
Kurt
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| Posted: Sat Apr 20th, 2019 05:47 pm |
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9th Post |
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