View single post by Eric
 Posted: Sun Mar 14th, 2021 05:48 pm
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Eric

 

Joined: Wed Sep 16th, 2020
Location: Clarks Summit, USA
Posts: 1
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March 14, 2021

To all that came to my aid VIA the Vintage Karting site: Terry, Steve, Mike, S Kneisel, and Doug.

Your many wonderful pointers, thoughts, and suggestions were greatly appreciated, and have served to make me a whole lot smarter than when I began. I have had positive results with my WB820, which I will share last.

I will reply to each suggestion with the results of my study; perhaps this may be of help to others.

Per Mike: I’ve always stayed away from ethanol gas, and love the suggestion to “set the fulcrum arm so it is just the thickness of the fulcrum lever above the floor of the casting.” This has now been done…

Per S Kneisel: “Did I remove the welch plug?” When I cleaned the carb in ultrasonic cleaner (hot water with 2-oz Simple Green 45 minutes) I had not removed the welch plug. Since then, to verify, I have now carefully removed that plug to easily see that all 3 small jet holes are as clean as a whistle! That has now been checked.

Per Terry & Doug: Terry asked if I was “burning gas or alcohol?” I am burning 91 octane ethanol-free gasoline. Terry and Doug also asked about the “condition of the engine: seals, rings etc.”
* I blocked off the intake and exhaust ports, applied 8 PSI into combustion chamber via spark plug hole. This easily maintained this pressure.
* I then blocked off the intake and applied 6 PSI to the exhaust port which also held without signs of concern.
“Pulse Hole?” This is new territory to me but I did my best to assure this these passage ways were all okay.
“Reed Cage?” I verified that intake manifold, reed cage, gasket, and block all were in their correct positions. Please see added images.

Per Doug: Doug writes, “when you crank the engine, before it fires, you should see fuel progressing smartly up toward the carb.” With yellow fuel line in place, spark plug removed, socket/ratchet on clutch I then spun the engine. With each revolution I was able to see fuel pulsing smartly towards the carburetor; this was significant.

Per Steve: Steve states: “the butterfly seal should be checked to assure the butterfly is not offset.” Fortunately for me, the butterfly was perfectly centered, and formed a perfect seal…no light passed through. I then turned the idle control screw one full turn beyond where it just made contact.
With both carb adjustment screws set to 1-turn open, and 1-quart of fresh 91 octane, ethy-free gas mixed with castor oil I was all set to give this another try.
Armed with a new warm up procedure per Steve the engine fired well. I warmed up 1-minute using short but wide open throttle bursts…open-close-open-close.
I did hold the brake and throttle for three seconds but the engine still wanted to stall…that is until I moved the idle control screw open per Steve and yippee, the engine idles! With snow all melted I was able to take a few victory laps around on our very level lawn area.

My final comments: I needed to go through a lengthy checklist to be certain of just what I was dealing with. I believe the major culprit was two-fold, I did not know of a proper warm up procedure, and having read of the proper setting of the idle control screw, 1-turn beyond fully closed, I just went brain-dead and left that setting alone. There just was not enough air available for this WB820 to idle. Thanks Steve for triggering my brain to “adjust the idle control screw to get the desired idle speed.”

I now look forward to this summer and doing something I have dreamed of since the summer of 1962, sitting behind the wheel of a GoKart 1200. Eric Holt

Attachment: Kart Int Gask hole align.JPG (Downloaded 48 times)

Last edited on Sun Mar 14th, 2021 06:00 pm by Eric

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