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| Posted: Thu Jun 7th, 2012 04:10 am |
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1st Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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I got the engine to run a few times 2 to 3 minutes each time, but couldn't get it to hold a load. After a while I couldn't even get it to start. When I checked the spark it seemed pretty week. Don't magneto's usually put out a pretty nice spark? I replaced the J16 champion for a Autolite 4316(is this the correct plug?) and rebuilt the carb(HL 88A). It has now only fired a couple of times and hasn't run for more than 5 or 6 seconds. I have never worked on a 2cycle before. I was going to check the points next. What is the easiest way to remove the Rotor?
Or should I look at the Reed Plate? Also what gas mixture would you recommend? Is one turn out on the carb screws a good place to start?
Thanks for your help guys!
Phil Howard
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| Posted: Thu Jun 7th, 2012 12:09 pm |
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2nd Post |
Steve Miller
Member
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hi phil ., i like west bends and have a few .im guessing the seals are dried up . i would first look at pto side and see if theres any moisture around seal where it meets crank shaft . then pop off flywheel and inspect inner seal .at the same time clean the points up and regap .016 . i have motors been settin 30yrs west bend seals dont seem to bother real bad .. theres 3 holes in a west bend flywheel but no threds for puller so you have to remove them like a p/p engine screw flywheel nut flush with end of crank use small pry bar and dont be an animale kinda lightly pry and whack the nut with soft hammer you gotta tunk it pretty hard .. if you have factory star reeds iv never ever seen a set bad .. carb you could try both at 1 and 1/2 turns out .thats where i start .. the carb might be all your problems ..sometimes theres crud under neith the welch plugs if they didnt come with kit and were removed and cleaned the screan out maybe maybe that s part of it .. i have couple test carbs i put on somethin if its not acting right atleast eliminates that area .. 2 strokes are so simple youll be a pro in no time ..
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| Posted: Thu Jun 7th, 2012 12:14 pm |
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3rd Post |
Steve Miller
Member
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if you wanna scare yourself make a cover for exhaust and one for carb with a fitting on it and blow few pounds air like 5 lps in motor while in pale water with tiny bit soap in the water watch all the leaks then .!!!!
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| Posted: Fri Jun 8th, 2012 05:39 am |
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4th Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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Thanks for responding Steve. Is the 1/2pint 30wt to one gallon 86 octane the correct mixture? I usually run synthetics in the vehicles I like, is there any advantage in 2cycles?
P.S. I would rather scare myself with how fast it goes, rather than a bunch of bubbles!!!
Phil Howard
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| Posted: Fri Jun 8th, 2012 03:53 pm |
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5th Post |
David Luciani
Administrator
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Acccchh,
use real racing mix not plain 30 wt.
while it'll work you are really asking for trouble.
real good way to stick a motor (stick means melt piston into side of block not a good idea!!)
a buddy who builds two strokes told me about his friend the engine sticker.
no matter what the builder did this guy always stuck the motor.
turned out he was using cheap weed wacker mix.
klotz or any racing two stroke oil is a way better fomulated mix oil.
use at least part Racing castor oil as the old motors love it.
"not human consumtion buy at the pharmacy castor oil" another friend used that and stuck four of his motors before i figured out what he was doing!!
i use between 4 to 6 onces per gallon .
before you say that's alot it's been proven time and again that friction is a bigger problem then burning the fuel.
besides castor oil has a very intense flame front anyway.
the newer mix ratios on new equipment is all epa standards not what will make the motor last.
dave
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| Posted: Fri Jun 8th, 2012 04:22 pm |
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6th Post |
Eddie Katcher
Member
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I'm with Dave-o. No poser oils. I have used Maxima lubes for years in my dirt bikes, racing alky outboards, and now in my kart motors running both gas and alky. Maxima 927 at 16 to 1 in all ball and roller bearing engines (WB-580's here) and 12 to 1 in the bushing engines, (A-4xx and A-5xx Clintons).
If you choose a castor based oil, make sure you get a de-gummed one. Castor provides one of the most stick-free properties of any lubricant that has ever been used in a racing engine. A bit more messy than the synthetics but I have never had an engine stick. Burned pistons, and the ends off of spark plugs but never had a bearing or piston to wall failure since I started fooling with these types of engines in the early 70's. I have several of my old engines that have been sitting in the basement for 20 years + without being run and they still turn over freely with the 927.
And here's where I am going to really get beat up by my fellow karters........(I've never had to fog my engines post running with the Maxima either......sssssssh)
puttnikdude
bad boy
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| Posted: Fri Jun 8th, 2012 05:05 pm |
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7th Post |
Steve Miller
Member
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.ive used maxum 927 castor since it came out .. 16 to 1 on old engines 32 to 1 on all my race bikes micro sprint ect ect .. ive been running meth in stuff for 20 yrs i leave it right in there week after week .. never had trouble with carb or eatin aluminum heck it dont even turn it white .. thats just me ...!!! but i say alky is way over rated i use it to keep my motors cooler i dont flush purge blow up its butt nothin ..just add more once in a while .. they say it eats carb diaphrams .. i can proove it dont do nothin one my karts been settin since sept still got meth in it ill bet anybody 100 bucks itll fire up and ill race it as is .. this is just me i wouldnt recommend this to anybody .. other than maxum 927 is good stuff ..
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| Posted: Fri Jun 8th, 2012 08:40 pm |
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8th Post |
Pruit Ginsberg
Member
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Your carb has a diaphram pump in it, so you should see the gas come up to the carb in the clear vinyl fuel line when you pull the recoil with the carb choked. If not, then its not pumping. If the gas comes up, then the needles need to be set correctly as you have been advised,
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2012 06:27 am |
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9th Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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Thanks for the tips. I cleaned up the points & gapped at .016". Added come clear fuel line so I can watch what is happening. I got started late on the kart so it was after 10:00 PM when I got it back together. Will try and start it tomorrow afternoon. I am curious about the timing. Is that something worth playing with? How do you do it? I am making a chain/clutch cover from an old thick aluminum bowl. Hope to post some pix tomorrow along with some of the clutch to see if someone has a 9/10t cup for cheap. My gears are toast! I checked the spark tonight and it looks good. Wish I didn't have a job or so many projects/responsibilities that take time from playing with this thing!!!
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2012 11:23 am |
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10th Post |
Steve Miller
Member
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phil . Lol your addicted already aint ya .!!! atleast its a relativly healthy addiction but still can cost you if your not careful .. anyways glad your having fun .keep it up you will be riding soon .. i wouldnt be to worried about the timinig yet your working with a 45 yr old motor thats only 3 or 4 hp .. you aint gonna be settin the world on fire no matter what you do to it .. get it goin learn as you go then over the winter maybe pull it down do a little port work install 5 port piston bla bla bla .. there good little motors .. just remember there 45 yrs old and it wont never snap your neck off . i forgot what kinda kart you have or if you even have one .. also i feel for you on the workin deal ..i been retired for 10 yrs after the first time i tried to retire 23 yrs ago .. ill be 50 in few months and i dont have time to do hardly nothin except work ..!!!! id love to work on karts 10-12 hours a day .insted of autos,sand blasting something or welding rusted junk back together for people and trying to keep 325 acre farm goin all at same time .. still trying to figure out how im considered to be retired ..
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2012 09:05 pm |
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11th Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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Here is my clutch. What kind/brand is it? Is it normal for the springs that are under the brass pieces on the friction pads to be different? Anyone have a "cup" with a good gear for cheap?
PhilAttachment: rsz_goat-kart_019.jpg (Downloaded 101 times)
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2012 09:24 pm |
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12th Post |
Steve Miller
Member
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thems dang good clutches .. i try and get as many of them as i can .. you can change the springs for different engagements in like two minutes i love em .. im almost sure there called fairbanks moorse .??? i use noram red springs in about everything .. not uncommon at all two different springs .. i try everything one red one brown what ever suits ya .. you can only fit like 3 different colors in there befor they change to what i call big springs .. but 3 sets you have about 27 different combos .. you wont find a driver cheap just machine off sprocket call good ol jimbo D. at max torque get a 10 tooth 5/8 ths inch sprocket tig it on and go .. !!! if your not set up or have a friend that is . send it to me ..ill fix ya right up ..
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 03:51 am |
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13th Post |
| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 04:03 am |
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14th Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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OK, what did I mess up now? I took reed assy apart and cleaned it and re-installed. Now engine is blowing excess gas out exhaust! Only got it to fire up once, but even my wife thought it sounded SWEET!!!
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 04:17 am |
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15th Post |
| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 04:20 am |
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16th Post |
| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 04:20 am |
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17th Post |
| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 11:01 am |
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18th Post |
Steve Miller
Member
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phil ., i gotta give it up too you on the chain guard .. i always figured i was pretty clever at using anything i can find to make something .. very very good idea you got there .. dang and it looks so old school .. when you say fuel comes out exhaust .. if its just a few spalts of black lookin grease its normal open exhaust .. if low and high jets are around one and half sounds like vulcrum arm needs adjust or spring is week .. flooding out .. when you cleaned reeds you didnt take them apart did you .. ive seen lotta people over tighten screws and it raises pedals off cage and they leak read bad , ..
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 12:34 pm |
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19th Post |
Ted Johnson
Member
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Steve's got it. Before you assemble reeds to the cage, clean the parts with aerosol brake cleaner (be careful not to blow those little #4 screws all over the shop...). Put a tiny drop of blue Loctite on each screw, and you won't need to over tightem them. Be sure the reed petals have not been flipped upside down. Sometimes this will cause them not to seat flat on the cage. McMaster Carr's got a real small screw-grabbing screwdriver that holds the screws whilst you're assembling. Saves lost screws and lots of cussing! I do reed assembly in the tiled kitchen so I can find the pieces when I drop things. McMaster's also got the #4-40 X 1/4" long pan head reed screws, P/N 90283A106, or 3/16" long 90263A105. Cheap, too. TJ Last edited on Mon Jun 11th, 2012 12:44 pm by Ted Johnson
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 01:26 pm |
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20th Post |
Steve Miller
Member
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thanks Tj., i forgot to tell him make sure they was flat and flush with cage to start with ... if he never took them apart they may need to be flipped .. if you can see more than .005 air gap there leakin .. i mess with my for how ever long it takes to make all 2,4 , 6 or how ever many are sealed .. sometimes its boring cus 2 ,3 or 4 might all be hooked together so one ends flat other end pops up .. go back and fourth with that few dozen times see how your nerves are then . ,Lol. Tj i do all my carb reed work on a fold out tabel with a blanket on it i figure it gives me about 3 foot by 6 foot area and even still once in a while a bolt or two , fulcrum arm spring gets away from me .
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