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| Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 02:05 pm |
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21st Post |
Ted Johnson
Member
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Actually, I've found that if reeds don't completely seat it's not usually an issue, unless they're standing more than 1/64"/1/32" proud. The crankcase compression will seat them real quick. As far as seating while running goes, if you've ever seen reeds operare in an engine under a strobe light, you'd be amazed at the gyrations they go through. First time I saw that, I knew I'd never use a steel reed again! The main thing with reed petals is to make darn sure they cover the opening with at least 1/32" overlap at the edges. It's worth having the West Bend Vee reed with phenolic reeds. If a phenolic reed breaks and goes through the engine, no biggie. If a steel reed breaks and goes through the engine, look out! If the fuel comes out the exhaust, it usually means the engine is flooded, and a new spark plug may be in order, along with making sure the high speed needle is around 1-1/2 turns out, and the low speed needle is around 1-1/4 turns out for starters. Also make sure that the diaphragms are good, and that they're assembled in the right order: gasket nearest the carb body, then diaphragm. Make sure the inlet needle is not sticking in its seat, and that both needle tip and seat are clean and not nicked. TJ
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| Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2012 01:36 am |
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22nd Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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When I crank the engine after playing with the reed assy it seems WAAAAY rich! Just a couple of cranks and the carb and crankcase are very wet. I will take it apart again and see if I can find something. Any pix of a reed assy or the blow-up of the HL88A carb? When I rebuilt the carb, I just put the new gaskets in the way the old gaskets came out. Just put a flashlight on the intake side of the reed assy and it has .005" to .010" on three or four of them. I will try to take care of that and report back.
Phil
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| Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2012 02:42 am |
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23rd Post |
Steve Welte
Member
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Since you rebuilt the carb ther eis a very good chance you have the fulcrum arm in the carb at the wrong height. One end of the arm is attached to the needle that is in the seat. the other end is in the center of the carb body where the metal part of the diaphram hits the end of the arm when the diaphram pulses. It move the arm. If you have it to high off the body it will dump fuel into the engine. If to low it starves the fuel. You need to check it an get it right.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2012 03:19 am |
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24th Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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Steve Welte wrote:
Since you rebuilt the carb ther eis a very good chance you have the fulcrum arm in the carb at the wrong height. One end of the arm is attached to the needle that is in the seat. the other end is in the center of the carb body where the metal part of the diaphram hits the end of the arm when the diaphram pulses. It move the arm. If you have it to high off the body it will dump fuel into the engine. If to low it starves the fuel. You need to check it an get it right.
Fulcrum was off of pin/screw. I put it back on, but think I need to give it a little more height as a couple of shots of gas starts it right up, but then it dies. Too late to play with it and keep all the neighbors happy!
Thanks,
PhilLast edited on Tue Jun 12th, 2012 03:23 am by Phil Howard
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| Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2012 03:30 am |
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25th Post |
Phil Howard
Member
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Next question involves the exhaust pipe/muffler(?). The side opposite the engine is pretty much gone. Could I just file the sides smooth and rivet/screw a flat plate of aluminum on it? Maybe J-B Weld it for good measure. Is there much to be done with the exhaust for cheap power? If not can it be quieted down without reducing power?
Phil
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| Posted: Wed Jun 13th, 2012 12:08 am |
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26th Post |
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