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| Posted: Thu May 24th, 2012 06:47 pm |
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1st Post |
Brad Beard
Member
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First the good news. I finally got the stuck bolts loose and disassembled my Hegar Mystery clutch. More good news was that the sealed bearing tapped right out with a drift and small hammer.
The bad news is that the needle bearings are totally rusted up. After an hour in Blaster they don't even try to turn. The needle bearings of which I speak are, I believe what is called a Torrington bearing. My experiece with trying to replace a similar one in a Burco closed clutch cover was less than enjoyable to say the least, so I decided to call out for help............
Does anyone know a painless way of getting one of these things out and getting a new one back in that doesn't involve blood, sweat, swearing, and throwing tools? If so, help me please!
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| Posted: Thu May 24th, 2012 10:57 pm |
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2nd Post |
| Posted: Thu May 24th, 2012 11:11 pm |
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3rd Post |
Brad Beard
Member
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I got it out. Pulled the needles out with an awl and ground a couple of slots with the dremel. Had to use a stone, the burr wouldn't touch the bearing. Once it gets cracked it pulls right out. I'm a lot smarter than I was with the Burco, but it's still a pain in the a.. I found the replacements and they are on order. How hot should I bake the hub? I think I tried 250 degf on the Burco and it didn't go in that easy. Would 425 degf be too high?
James did you get the hub?
Last edited on Thu May 24th, 2012 11:12 pm by Brad Beard
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| Posted: Thu May 24th, 2012 11:22 pm |
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| Posted: Fri May 25th, 2012 12:49 pm |
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5th Post |
Alan E. Lidke
Member
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Brad, I agree with James and go for about 350-375 degrees. And also keep in mind that the Burco used a lot higher grade of material than was used on the Hegars back in the day and may not expand nearly enough at 250 degrees. Thankfully, the bearings are still readily available. And remember to apply a film of grease to the bearing needles before putting the bearings in a freezer prior to installation. -Alan-
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| Posted: Fri May 25th, 2012 02:16 pm |
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| Posted: Sat May 26th, 2012 05:39 am |
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7th Post |
Terry Bentley
Member
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How do you figure the Burco oil clutch covers were of higher grade of aluminum? Hegar components were machined from billet aluminum. Not the drums, but all of the flat stock and even shoes. Those Burco covers were just cheap porous cast aluminum.
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| Posted: Sat May 26th, 2012 08:25 pm |
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8th Post |
Alan E. Lidke
Member
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Terry, upon reviewing Brad's original post, my bad. I originally thought he was referring to the Burco axle clutch and not the closed cover. -Alan-
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| Posted: Sat May 26th, 2012 08:30 pm |
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| Posted: Sat May 26th, 2012 09:13 pm |
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10th Post |
Brad Beard
Member
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Uh Huh, well to be fair the Burco closed cover was a "billet" Burco closed cover. A copy. A pretty thing to behold, but once I got the torrington bearing fully inserted it became apparent that the machining was off a little, and multiple gaskets would e required to allow proper clearance for the clutch internals. When I realized this I pretty much put it on the shelf and moved on to other more pressing issues.
This is just a statment of the facts, please continue your most eloquent arguments. They are enjoyable.
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| Posted: Sun May 27th, 2012 04:31 am |
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11th Post |
Terry Bentley
Member
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The very early covers were billet stock. I sold several of them on ebay a few years ago. Is your cover a clone of the cast model with cooling fins or just plain?
One of my next quickie machine shop projects that I will do a wiretup here is going to be a billet cover with fins, while the rotary table is still set up on mill. Unfortunately I have not found a scrap piece of aluminum thick enough to use yet...
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| Posted: Sun May 27th, 2012 11:41 am |
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12th Post |
Brad Beard
Member
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Terry
I also have one of the covers with no fins or rings, but the one I had the issues with clearance is the one in the picture.
Attachment: billitt_burco.jpg (Downloaded 126 times)
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| Posted: Mon May 28th, 2012 04:24 am |
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13th Post |
Terry Bentley
Member
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That is definitely a custom job there. Guess someone with a lathe had fun cutting it out. Would catch the attention of their competitors. If the person that machined it out was a front runner, there would have been some more showing up shortly after.
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| Posted: Mon May 28th, 2012 11:50 am |
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14th Post |
Brad Beard
Member
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The second-hand story I got when I bought it was that it came from Mike Colver. I'm not familiar with him, but I think he is a big name in more modern karting. That was the story anyway. I think it might work withan extra gasket installed. Pretty though isn't it? Brad
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| Posted: Tue May 29th, 2012 04:00 am |
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15th Post |
Terry Bentley
Member
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Mike is famous for the spray ring carburetor aka the Colverator. He cut out the venturi and bomb site of a Mikuni and added a machined insert with 28 tiny holes in the new venturi. Very cool stuff. They always bring a premium. I still have a few sets of them for my dual 34mm manifolds.
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| Posted: Tue May 29th, 2012 10:33 am |
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16th Post |
Brad Beard
Member
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So you have some dual 34s too huh. What are they good for? I got a couple in a box of parts (maifolds, not carbs). Seems like they would be too much even for a B-Bomb. Please tell me your experiance with them. Brad
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| Posted: Tue May 29th, 2012 03:14 pm |
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| Posted: Tue May 29th, 2012 05:40 pm |
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18th Post |
Ted Johnson
Member
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I always ran the alky Mikuni on the 100cc open LMR and Atlas on longer tracks. I ran dual HL293A's on the shorter tracks for better fuel pickoff in the smaller venturis. The open 101's also were happy on either setup. Ted
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