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| Posted: Sun Jun 17th, 2007 04:20 am |
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1st Post |
| Posted: Sun Jun 17th, 2007 01:54 pm |
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2nd Post |
Russ Smith
Member
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It's a 1961 Go Kart 800 and that appears to be the original color. Factory Brochures call it Candy Red. Nice original and un-molested kart.
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| Posted: Sun Jun 17th, 2007 07:35 pm |
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3rd Post |
Tom Smith
Member
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The paint Go Kart used was Kandy Apple Red. It was made by Kandy Kolor Paint.
You can get it now from House Of Kolor.
It's takes a bit of pratice to learn how to apply it.
I went to a hobby shop and got some Testors candy red spray paint to touch up a small spot on a Go Kart I have and the match was good. You could probably paint the whole kart with a few cans of Testors and then put some clear over it.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 18th, 2007 03:03 pm |
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4th Post |
Russ Smith
Member
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Hmmmm, Testors Candy Apple Red, eh? I wonder how many of those little 3oz. cans it would take to do an entire frame? 
By the way.....does anybody know of a good match to Snap-On tool box RED. That is, other than taking it in the shorts from the Snap-On man.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 19th, 2007 04:41 pm |
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5th Post |
hellya916
Guest
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Thank you so much for your comments. My dad will be excited to know the exact year and model of our kart. I'm glad to have found out the original color, I thought it was black. I'm still not sure if I'm going to go for the full restoration or just a repaint. I would like to go back to the original go kart wheels but they seem to be very scarce. any ideas? did this kart come with two engines originally?
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| Posted: Tue Jun 19th, 2007 06:31 pm |
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6th Post |
Nate Thompson
Member
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The front wheels are original but the rears are not. If you cannot find the exact wheels, Hands wheels look fairly similar. Once in a while a pair will show up on ebay.
The kart came with either one or two engines, its pretty much your choice whether or not you want one or two.
Great looking kart, hope to see new photos soon.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 19th, 2007 07:02 pm |
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7th Post |
| Posted: Tue Jun 19th, 2007 08:26 pm |
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8th Post |
Russ Smith
Member
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Rather than add a cheesy looking piece of diamond plate to the rear of the seat pan, why not install an original style Azusa half round fuel tank? Greg Gouveia (805- 541-4310) has primo chrome plated repops for $279. If make the effort to properly restore this kart, it will be well worth the time and expense.
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| Posted: Tue Jun 19th, 2007 09:25 pm |
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9th Post |
Jeff Troy
Member
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Hi, Hallya,
That sure brings back memories, but very recent ones. I restored a 1960 Go Kart 800 last year. Matter of fact, we raced it at Oreville (PA) just this past weekend. There's an image attached at the end of this message.
Testor's or other, candy colors are transluscent and must be shot over g0ld or silver base coats (after primer). g0ld underbase delivers a deeper, richer candy, and silver underbases produce a brighter, lighter and more electric look.
Tubing is surprisingly difficult to paint with any transluscent materials, especially when flat areas like floor pans and seat backs are welded against them. It takes a lot of talent to get the inside tube/pan joints painted without too much build up on the tubes around the intersections. Pearls, candies, some metalflakes and similar finishes must be shot evenly because a heavy buildup in any area will show in a streaked finish.
If you're going to take the candy route, be assured that House of Kolor is absolutely top quality material (subsidiary of Valspar Corp). I'd suggest buying a plastic model car kit and a few cans of Testors candy color, along with a few cans of g0ld and silver to use as an underbase. Try it all so you'll understand the procedure, as well as the ill affects of an uneven application. When you have it right, shoot the 800.
Here's my 1960 Go Kart at Fremont last year. It's got an MC-6.
Warmest regards...
Attachment: IMG_1930 - NET.jpg (Downloaded 342 times)
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2007 04:28 pm |
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10th Post |
Mark Havery
Member
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Hi,
This my two cents worth based on many full candy finishes (in laquer) on cars and
motor cycles. Any flaws in the metal work, ie. nicks and scratches will show as dark
spots since they collect the tinted color. So, your metal and priming must be flawless.
After the silver or g0ld basecoats I seal that in a light coat of clear with a very careful
sanding of the clear with out breaking through it. Even a slight rough overspray will
show as a rough sandy dark area in the final color coat.
When your are finally at the stage of the tinted color coat the spraying must be
approached in individual areas instead of an overall paint job. You carefully spray
every area lightly until the overall finish is an even color. It takes perfect lighting
conditions and hours to get the desired result. An extra set of eyes sure doesn't
hurt. Even a speck of dust can result in a dark grit spot. After you are finished with
the color coat the whole job is sealed in layers of clear that can be lightly sanded
in between the coats. Even the final rubbing out is a nightmare and must be
approached with great care so you don't rub through even the slightest amount
into the base color. If you do there is no going back since any additional color will only
darken the finish in that area. If you have the skill and patience to do a fine candy
paint job the effort will be worth it. A small door jamb gun or spotting gun is perfect
for a kart frame, anything larger would be difficult to control.
Mark Havery
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2007 04:53 pm |
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11th Post |
hellya916
Guest
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Wow, Candy apple sounds just a bit over my pay grade. I am going to think long and hard about the color. I am kind of leaning towards a "Hugger Orange" due to it being a lighter color and will hide imperfections, although It wouldn't be quite a full restore anymore. Hmmm I am sure what ever I do, I'm gonna do I'll disappoint some of you but thats life I guess. Thanks guys.
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2007 05:18 pm |
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12th Post |
Mark Havery
Member
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Solid colors are the best and can easily touched up, in fact I'm going with orange on
my Frankenstein Hartman and yellow on my Simplex project. Either color makes for a
great looking kart. I've seen good candy powdercoat jobs, I bet the electrostatic
powder process make coating the frame evenly infinitely easier.
Mark
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2007 05:51 pm |
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13th Post |
hellya916
Guest
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That was my first instinct. My problem was that I could not remove my steering shaft, Its welded in place. oh well.
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2007 09:56 pm |
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14th Post |
Russ Smith
Member
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Doesn't your kart have a splined hub that's attached to the upper end of the steering shaft? Even if you have to cut the shaft, direct replacements are still available......and cheap!
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| Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2007 11:05 pm |
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15th Post |
Mark Havery
Member
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Hi Russ,
I believe his kart has the welded on flange like the Blitz. You can see it in the photo.
But as you noted is easily upgraded.
Mark
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| Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 04:20 pm |
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16th Post |
hellya916
Guest
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Its definately welded on. where could I find a suitable replacement? as long as its very close, I have no problem replacing it. are there any available already chromed?
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| Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 04:51 pm |
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17th Post |
Mark Havery
Member
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Ameircan Power Sports at apskarting.com has all the parts you need including steering kits for your kart. They exact replacement pedals as well. Email for a latest catalog.
Mark
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| Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 06:39 pm |
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18th Post |
Matt Bernal
Member
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Thanks Mark, Bye the way they asked me to change my user name. So here I am no longer anonymous.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 08:08 pm |
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19th Post |
| Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 09:45 pm |
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20th Post |
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